A few years ago my wife and I decided to take a holiday in Croatia as it was reasonably cheap and rather unspoilt. We were not disappointed and were based near Porec. What we did not bargain for was that we would be able to visit Venice which was something we had always wanted to do. It was basically easy as it was one of the many trips offered and like everything else in Croatia, was rather cheap.
If my memory serves me correctly, the trip to Venice set me back just over seventy euros. After a few lazy days bumming around on the beach, the day came and we boarded a hydrofoil at about half past six from a surprisingly busy harbour in Porec.
Both Caron and I had read a great deal about Venice but we were not prepared for what we found.
Venice was more than a visit it was an experience. I have always been susceptible to changes in light and have often travelled to different places in England just to study the light and its changing frequency. But as we approached Venice, my breath was taken away. It was as if I had fallen into a pastel palette and was drowning in the soft colour.
Apologises for lapsing into the poetic but the light was stunning. As we entered the lagoon, we reduced speed considerably and moved at more leisurely pace.
We passed San Michele (The Isle of the Dead) which from a distance was very haunting.
It can be reached easily from Venice via a Vaporetto (Waterbus). I am told that Igor Stravinsky and Sergei Diaghilev rest there as well as the poet Ezra Pound. Caron and I would have liked to have visited the island but time was short and there was so much to see.
The captain of the hydrofoil gave us a few instructions and told us that the current air temperature was thirty four degrees which is a shade over ninety three. Mistake number one, we were both wearing jeans although we had thought to bring a change of shirt as the sun was so fierce. It was going to be a hot day, but our researches were going to be of great use.
We knew where to eat cheaply (Accademia) and had clued ourselves up as to the general geography of Venice.But we did not plan for the thousands of people that we would encounter and the dangers of their parasols. Dangers of parasols you may ask? Well I am six foot tall and my wife not far behind and we frequently just avoided blindness
with the points of parasols coming dangerously close to our faces. Also the air temperature might have been ninety three degrees but due to the closeness of the buildings in Venice, it was well over one hundred degrees. What did surprise me was that there was little or no cooling breeze. I had expected one given that we were on an island. But we were both slowly seduced and visited all the main sights of Venice such as St Mark’s Square and St Mark’s Basilica as well as the Palazzo Ducale (The Doge’s Palace). We visited the Rialto Bridge and the as well as the Ponte dei Sospiri (The Bridge of Sighs).
As noon approached we retired to Accademia to find somewhere to refresh ourselves and were lucky enough to find a small restaurant near the Ponte dell’ Accademia .
For eight euros we were able to share a pizza as well as having a few soft drinks. The restaurant appeared to be owned by a family who all supported Internazionale and my knowledge of Italian football and the fact that I had previously played for an exiled Italian side in London obviously helped. It was strange that there was a bond between my incredibly poor Italian and their equally poor English. We understood each other.
One of the brothers also said that we should visit the Island of Murano (which in fact are a series of islands north of Venice) and visit the glass making factories. The family had connections with the glass making factories but I was unable to find out more due to my poor grip of the Italian language. I had been aware of Murano Glass and had seen examples but had not really studied it carefully.
We did not really have the time to visit the glass making factories (although they were not far away). So Caron and I decided that we would slow our pace and for a while study this beautiful glass. I still harboured ambitions about visiting the ground of Venezia F.C. but was put off by the fact that the Stadio Pierluigi Penzo was really only accessible by boat. Also, my wife was not thrilled by my enthusiasm for such a trip. So we spent the next couple of hours drifting through the surprisingly well signposted streets of Venice looking for examples of the glass.
But what is Murano Glass?
Well first of all it has been around for centuries. Murano glass appears to have originated in Rome in the eighth century and has exhibited similarities with both Asiatic and Islamic glassware. It also shares similarities with early Greek glasses some of which were found in the shipwreck of Antikythera. However, it was not until 1291 when the Venetian Republic ordered the glassmakers to migrate to Murano that things took shape. It appears that the authorities were worried that the mainly wooden buildings of Venice might catch fire or worse.
This was a good move for the glassmakers as they soon became some of the islands most prominent citizens Their daughters were able to marry into well to do families and they enjoyed many other privileges. This said they were not allowed to leave the island.
However, many did so and set up businesses as far afield as the Netherlands and England.
The glassmakers of Murano were recognised as being some of the most advanced in their field. They refined technologies such as those connected with crystalline glass, enamelled glass (smalto) and milk glass (lattimo). Other types of glass such as multi-coloured glass (millefiori) and Aventurine (which was glass containing threads of gold) were produced to the highest standards. Imitation gemstones made of glass were very popular and these are made to this day. Obviously, the flexibility of these techniques meant that the craftsmen could create everything from jewellery to wine stoppers.
Exquisite chandeliers were also within their capabilities.
At first these glassmakers held a monopoly as they kept their methods secret, but by the end of the sixteenth century the secret was out as more and more glassmakers migrated away from Venice. I am not going to enlarge on these techniques as to be truthful, I do not really understand them and I would like do them justice. If you are interested in these techniques then there is plenty of detail on the internet. All I know was that some of their glasswork was incredibly beautiful.
The glassmakers of Murano still employ these ancient techniques with very little reference to many modern advances. Sometimes the subtleties of this glass can be stunning. In one shop we visited there was a reflected light coming in off of one of the backstreet canals. It was hitting the various items in the shop and the effect was amazing. It was almost as if one was trapped in a kaleidoscope. It was that beautiful.
Naturally as it was the middle of July even these small shops were crowded and not all the items were priced which made me a little wary.
Venice can be very expensive. It however costs nothing to look and that is what we did as we walked around Venice. If you can imagine glass that is at once colourful but is beautiful at the same time, then I am sure that you will like Murano glass. But you do not have to go to Venice to purchase it.
If you look hard then it can be found quite easily in the UK. I have seen various items in Hungerford over the years. Sadly, in most cases it is not that cheap although never say never. You might come across a random piece by accident at an acceptable price. I do not collect it so am not really a good person to judge prices. But then again, if you are lucky enough to visit Venice then do go to the glassmaking factories. I actually regret not doing so but as I noted. there was so much to see. On that day, we did not purchase any examples of Murano glass but this was down to our tight schedule as much as the prices quoted.
The hydrofoil was due to leave at five-thirty and as we did not want spend the night in Venice (well we did but that was another story), we went to meet our transport a little early. The heat had become a bit much for poor Caron and I spent the last hour trying to purchase a bottle or two of chilled water. This surprisingly was rather difficult as I all could see for sale was alcohol which was not a good idea given the temperatures. It was not until we boarded the hydrofoil that I was able to purchase some cans of Coca Cola for two euros each which was amazingly expensive. For some reason bottled water was not sold on board. If I had been more organised then this money might have been put to better use, if you get my drift. But I had no regrets and as we sat on the balcony of our apartment that night with the naked wind from the sea capturing a certain coolness.
I thought that one day I would write a short piece about Venice and Murano glass.
That day has now come and I hope that you have enjoyed this article.
Caron and I will return to Venice and will stay longer.
We will visit the glassmaking factories, but this time we will purchase one or two examples. Since my original visit, I have seen many pieces of Murano glassware and am amazed at the variety of choice. I am a great fan of this glass but it is the taste of the individual which is important. Some might find it too beautiful. We are all different
A few years ago my wife and I decided to take a holiday in Croatia as it was reasonably cheap and rather unspoilt. We were not disappointed and were based near Porec. What we did not bargain for was that we would be able to visit Venice which was something we had always wanted to do. It was basically easy as it was one of the many trips offered and like everything else in Croatia, was rather cheap. 
Venice was more than a visit it was an experience. I have always been susceptible to changes in light and have often travelled to different places in England just to study the light and its changing frequency. But as we approached Venice, my breath was taken away. It was as if I had fallen into a pastel palette and was drowning in the soft colour.
The captain of the hydrofoil gave us a few instructions and told us that the current air temperature was thirty four degrees which is a shade over ninety three. Mistake number one, we were both wearing jeans although we had thought to bring a change of shirt as the sun was so fierce. It was going to be a hot day, but our researches were going to be of great use.
the points of parasols coming dangerously close to our faces. Also the air temperature might have been ninety three degrees but due to the closeness of the buildings in Venice, it was well over one hundred degrees. What did surprise me was that there was little or no cooling breeze. I had expected one given that we were on an island. But we were both slowly seduced and visited all the main sights of Venice such as St Mark’s Square and St Mark’s Basilica as well as the Palazzo Ducale (The Doge’s Palace). We visited the Rialto Bridge and the as well as the Ponte dei Sospiri (The Bridge of Sighs).
As noon approached we retired to Accademia to find somewhere to refresh ourselves and were lucky enough to find a small restaurant near the Ponte dell’ Accademia .
One of the brothers also said that we should visit the Island of Murano (which in fact are a series of islands north of Venice) and visit the glass making factories. The family had connections with the glass making factories but I was unable to find out more due to my poor grip of the Italian language. I had been aware of Murano Glass and had seen examples but had not really studied it carefully.
We did not really have the time to visit the glass making factories (although they were not far away). So Caron and I decided that we would slow our pace and for a while study this beautiful glass. I still harboured ambitions about visiting the ground of Venezia F.C. but was put off by the fact that the Stadio Pierluigi Penzo was really only accessible by boat. Also, my wife was not thrilled by my enthusiasm for such a trip. So we spent the next couple of hours drifting through the surprisingly well signposted streets of Venice looking for examples of the glass. 
Well first of all it has been around for centuries. Murano glass appears to have originated in Rome in the eighth century and has exhibited similarities with both Asiatic and Islamic glassware. It also shares similarities with early Greek glasses some of which were found in the shipwreck of Antikythera. However, it was not until 1291 when the Venetian Republic ordered the glassmakers to migrate to Murano that things took shape. It appears that the authorities were worried that the mainly wooden buildings of Venice might catch fire or worse.
This was a good move for the glassmakers as they soon became some of the islands most prominent citizens Their daughters were able to marry into well to do families and they enjoyed many other privileges. This said they were not allowed to leave the island.
The glassmakers of Murano were recognised as being some of the most advanced in their field. They refined technologies such as those connected with crystalline glass, enamelled glass (smalto) and milk glass (lattimo). Other types of glass such as multi-coloured glass (millefiori) and Aventurine (which was glass containing threads of gold) were produced to the highest standards. Imit
ation gemstones made of glass were very popular and these are made to this day. Obviously, the flexibility of these techniques meant that the craftsmen could create everything from jewellery to wine stoppers.
At first these glassmakers held a monopoly as they kept their methods secret, but by the end of the sixteenth century the secret was out as more and more glassmakers migrated away from Venice. I am not going to enlarge on these techniques as to be truthful, I do not really understand them and I would like do them justice. If you are interested in these techniques then there is plenty of detail on the internet. All I know was that some of their glasswork was incredibly beautiful.
The glassmakers of Murano still employ these ancient techniques with very little reference to many modern advances. Sometimes the subtleties of this glass can be stunning. In one shop we visited there was a reflected light coming in off of one of the backstreet canals. It was hitting the various items in the shop and the effect was amazing. It was almost as if one was trapped in a kaleidoscope. It was that beautiful.
Venice can be very expensive. It however costs nothing to look and that is what we did as we walked around Venice. If you can imagine glass that is at once colourful but is beautiful at the same time, then I am sure that you will like Murano glass. But you do not have to go to Venice to purchase it.
If you look hard then it can be found quite easily in the UK. I have seen various items in Hungerford over the years. Sadly, in most cases it is not that cheap although never say never. You might come across a random piece by accident at an acceptable price. I do not collect it so am not really a good person to judge prices. But then again, if you are lucky enough to visit Venice then do go to the glassmaking factories. I actually regret not doing so but as I noted. there was so much to see. On that day, we did not purchase any examples of Murano glass but this was down to our tight schedule as much as the prices quoted.
The hydrofoil was due to leave at five-thirty and as we did not want spend the night in Venice (well we did but that was another story), we went to meet our transport a little early. The heat had become a bit much for poor Caron and I spent the last hour trying to purchase a bottle or two of chilled water. This surprisingly was rather difficult as I all could see for sale was alcohol which was not a good idea given the temperatures. It was not until we boarded the hydrofoil that I was able to purchase some cans of Coca Cola for two euros each which was amazingly expensive. For some reason bottled water was not sold on board. If I had been more organised then this money might have been put to better use, if you get my drift. But I had no regrets and as we sat on the balcony of our apartment that night with the naked wind from the sea capturing a certain coolness.