Columbus, Amundsen, Scott, Vasco da Gama are just some of the world famous explorers, but there are two new names to add to the list…. Jane and Adrian Jefferies from unit 46W. This is the tale of their journey around the Land of Fire and Ice. (Iceland)
Day 1
Expeditions need careful planning so it essential to check supplies …
Trekking poles
Stout hiking boots
Waterproof clothing
Pack of Jelly babies
Polar bear deterrent.
The chauffeur driven limousine whisked us off to Heathrow, where a midday flight to Keflavik (Iceland’s main airport) awaited. Waiting are some of the guides for this exciting exploration, who transfer us to our floating home, the 200 passenger tramp steamer ‘Ocean Diamond’.
Our cabin is basic (no trouser press!) but we soon unpack and, after a refreshing glass of champagne, we carry out the mandatory safety drill. Life jackets correctly fitted, we drew straws to determine the first passenger to be eaten should we abandon ship. Cabin 418 “win” but they don’t look too appetising! During a sumptuous 3 course dinner (you will find Adrian is a gourmand, Ed) we set off for Stykkisholmur, a mere 115 nautical miles away
Day 2
After docking at Stykkisholmur, we set off visiting several small fishing villages heading towards the famous glacier, Snaefellsjokull. It was here that Jules Verne started his Journey to the Centre of the Earth. We had a good look but couldn’t find any entrance – I think he made it up!
We headed to Djupalionssadur beach (the names sound as though they are in Elvish!) and were allowed to take one of the millions of black pebbles. Every one in a thousand will grant you your wish ….. mine was a dud!. Then off to Arnarstapi via Londrangar (more Elvish) and then to Budir for its yellow sanded beach. (most are black but this one is made from Rhyolite; we learnt a lot of geology) Back on the ship, we enjoyed the Captain’s welcome dinner (he eats well) and watched the nesting birds on the Latrabjarg cliffs, lots of guillemots and fulmars.
Day 3
This morning we docked at Isafjordur (I’m sure this was in Lord of the RIngs!) and boarded a local ferry to Vigur Island. Here we learnt about Eider down and how they gather it from the ducks, clean and dry it before selling it at astronomical prices. It is incredibly light, just imagine holding a cloud; a normal eiderdown contains just a few grams of it.
A wonderful nature walk allowed us to see puffins, seals and arctic terns, who defended their nest by dive-bombing you. Jane was pecked on the head and ‘christened’ twice before we stopped at the local hostelry for hot chocolate and geyser cake (cake baked in a pot buried in the ground for 24 hours). An evening lecture by expert guide John on whales and dolphins was fascinating and the ship steamed off along the Hornbjarg cliffs.
Day 4
Today we stopped at Siglufjordur and visited the Herring Museum. Part of this involved a traditional herring salting performance where local herring girls gutted the fish before packing it with salt into wooden barrels. This is just for show as there is no commercial herring fishing any more as stocks have been depleted. However, they still sang bawdy songs in Icelandic while they gutted the fish. The museum is fascinating and we got to try some cured herring and the local wurtleberry schnapps. Before lunch, we set sail again, this time to Grimsey island, North of Iceland and just inside the Arctic Circle. A thrilling zodiac ride from the ship took us to Grimsey harbour and we had a wonderful cliff top walk watching all the birdlife – more puffins, snow buntings, plovers and phalaropes all to be seen.
Day 5
Akureyri was today’s stop. Rather a wet day so we had a stroll into town and watched the gigantic P&O Arcadia disgorge a small city’s worth of passengers. After lunch,we set sail to Godafoss, the waterfall of the Gods.
On the way, we stopped at Laxarbakki, Skutustadir and Myvatn lake to do more birdwatching.
Twitcher’s delight of the day was a Barrowman Golden Eye duck, highly prized as it’s quite rare in Europe Whimbrels, sanderlings, redshanks and a Slovakian grebe all helped to keep the species count ticking along. The local guide took us to his summer home which is built next to a lake fed by a natural warm spring. His neighbour’s house was thatched with grass turves, very eco-friendly.
Day 6
Husavik, well-known for its whale-watching tours. We took the morning tour and saw some white beaked dolphins and a humped back whale. We went back to port for lunch (we are now eating for England!) and visited the excellent whale museum where they had a complete blue whale skeleton. You could also play with some baleen, the plates the whales use to filter their food, these were made from keratin and looked a lot like horn. The afternoon tour was spectacular, more humpbacked whales, this time quite close.
Then, suddenly, one breached causing many to ooh and aaah in several languages. Watching 40 tons of blubber erupt from the water is not too dissimilar to me getting out of a pool, according to Jane! Later that night, we crossed the Arctic Circle again and had a celebration to Neptune. After the fourth vodka, I decided Neptune had been well exalted!
Day 7
Post breakfast (I had herring in mustard sauce, geyser bread, smoked lamb and Skyr yoghurt) we attended a geology lecture on the formation of Iceland. It is the only major island sitting on a mid-ocean ridge, hence the frequent volcanic activity. The ship entered Mjoifjordur fjord and, as the fog broke and the sun appeared, the views were spectacular as we cruised to the end of the fjord, turned around and came back. The water was like a millpond and created a mirror for some amazing reflections. If only there had been a car boot sale, it would have been a perfect Sunday morning! Next stop was Neskaupstadur in the Nordfjordur, a small fishing town with an excellent maritime museum. One of the interesting features of the town is a man-made avalanche barrier, which partly disrupts any avalanche flows into smaller flows before hitting a massive wall which directs the avalanche around the town. An evening lecture on the sex life of the puffin – we gave it a miss!
Day 8
The ship docked at Djupivogur around 6.00am. After a hearty breakfast (eggs benedict, beechwood smoked bacon, beans and more Skyr yoghurt) we set off for Jokulsarlon, a hundred metre deep glacial river lagoon, which is full of icebergs from the glacier, Breidamerkurjokull. The scenery is outstanding even before we get to the lagoon but is even better when we get there. We board an amphibious truck which drives/sails amongst the icebergs so we can get a closer look. The guide finds a small iceberg and breaks it in two, one piece we can hold, the other she breaks into smaller pieces for us to eat.
This is totally pollution-free thousand year old ice, wonderful in whisky we are told. This is the oldest thing we have ever eaten and it is so pure it has a super clean taste – weird. Lunch is at a local restaurant, where we try the local beer, smoked goose, cured lamb and reindeer pate – yummy! Dinner is followed by a chocoholic buffet desert plus more drinks – need I say more?
Day 9
We arrive at Heimaey island, the harbour is a tight S bend but we just get through with the help of a pilot. Heimaey was nearly destroyed in 1973 when the volcano Eldfell erupted and everyone was evacuated. Clever use of old D Day water pumps from the Reykjavik US airforce base prevented the lava flow from blocking the harbour. This was the first time that water sprayed onto lava to solidify it had been attempted. A third of the houses were destroyed and the town has now been rebuilt.
The “Pompeii of the North” museum was actually built around a half buried house and the events that happened during that period are most interesting. We left Heimaey into a 54 knot wind and a roller coaster sea; just standing on the observation deck required determination and a strong constitution.
Around 6.30 that evening, we passed Surtsey, a very new island that suddenly appeared in 1963 due to another volcanic eruption and is now a mile across. It is a special UNESCO reserve, off limits to all human activity to determine the rate of colonisation by plants and birds. As we watched this island, a pod of killer whales glided past as well as lots of gulls, fulmars and gannets. For the twitchers, I managed a total of 35 bird species on the trip.
Day 10
Back to Reykjavik and, after a last hearty breakfast, we transferred back to Keflavik airport for a pleasant flight home and our welcoming chauffeur.
It was an amazing trip, around 1000 photos, lots of memories; we ought to get an education grant we learnt so much. Our next expedition is on the Ning-thi (aka The Chindwin river) in Myanmar. (watch this space! Ed)
Our cabin is basic (no trouser press!) but we soon unpack and, after a refreshing glass of champagne, we carry out the mandatory safety drill. Life jackets correctly fitted, we drew straws to determine the first passenger to be eaten should we abandon ship. Cabin 418 “win” but they don’t look too appetising! During a sumptuous 3 course dinner (you will find Adrian is a gourmand, Ed) we set off for Stykkisholmur, a mere 115 nautical miles away
Today we stopped at Siglufjordur and visited the Herring Museum. Part of this involved a traditional herring salting performance where local herring girls gutted the fish before packing it with salt into wooden barrels. This is just for show as there is no commercial herring fishing any more as stocks have been depleted. However, they still sang bawdy songs in Icelandic while they gutted the fish. The museum is fascinating and we got to try some cured herring and the local wurtleberry schnapps. Before lunch, we set sail again, this time to Grimsey island, North of Iceland and just inside the Arctic Circle. A thrilling zodiac ride from the ship took us to Grimsey harbour and we had a wonderful cliff top walk watching all the birdlife – more puffins, snow buntings, plovers and phalaropes all to be seen.
The ship entered Mjoifjordur fjord and, as the fog broke and the sun appeared, the views were spectacular as we cruised to the end of the fjord, turned around and came back. The water was like a millpond and created a mirror for some amazing reflections. If only there had been a car boot sale, it would have been a perfect Sunday morning! Next stop was Neskaupstadur in the Nordfjordur, a small fishing town with an excellent maritime museum. One of the interesting features of the town is a man-made avalanche barrier, which partly disrupts any avalanche flows into smaller flows before hitting a massive wall which directs the avalanche around the town. An evening lecture on the sex life of the puffin – we gave it a miss!
It is a special UNESCO reserve, off limits to all human activity to determine the rate of colonisation by plants and birds. As we watched this island, a pod of killer whales glided past as well as lots of gulls, fulmars and gannets. For the twitchers, I managed a total of 35 bird species on the trip.