We all have special places which we return to from time and time.
One of my special places is Dartmouth in South Devon which I have visited many times since I first stayed in the town in 1977. I had heard of Dartmouth from my parents but had not really considered the town until I saw a movie called The Sailor Who Fell from Grace with the Sea which had been adapted from the Yukio Mishima novel and starred Sarah Miles and Kris Kristofferson. The movie showed both Kingswear (on the opposite bank of the river) and Dartmouth in their many moods and I was seduced and made a resolution to visit Dartmouth as soon as I could.
At about the same time, I met my future wife and we agreed that a holiday in Dartmouth would be quite fun. Our deal was sealed after Caron saw the movie in London with me.
The Dartmouth we found in 1977 has not changed radically to the Dartmouth of 2016.
The shops have matured, the original cinema has closed down as has one of the banks.
But there has been one major change and this is the subject of my article.
The Dartmouth Pottery sadly no longer exists. We found it by accident in 1977 when walking towards Dartmouth Castle. But what was the Dartmouth Pottery?
Well to start with it had a rather peculiar birth as of all people, a chemical factory owner with the wonderful name of Howard Koppenhagen founded the pottery in 1948. Sadly it had a very short life and lasted only to 2002, but its legacy is still felt and examples of its work can be found quite easily in antiques shops and arcades.
The Dartmouth Pottery was one of the last survivors (if not the last) of what was known in short asTorquay. In short, these were a group of potteries that were grouped around the famous seaside town. They started during the nineteenth century when ball clay was discovered in the area. It was initially exported to the Staffordshire potteries but soon potteries began to appear in South Devon. It was rather like The Mammoth that Roared as many of these potteries faded into history after a short number of years.
Rather strangely, the Dartmouth Pottery which was the youngest by far is the pottery that is most remembered and collected. Although saying this, I would imagine that there are collectors of the other Torquay potteries. At the time of writing whilst I have found examples of the Dartmouth Pottery, I have never knowingly found any of the other Torquay wares. Although I would imagine they can be found.
The actual location of the Dartmouth Pottery is on the edge of the town (I will give you directions later) and was located in an old mill at Warfleet Creek. The location was and still is idyllic, nested on the banks of the River Dart and only a short walk from where this lovely river breaks out into the sea. Its founder Howard Koppenhagen owned a factory in London which produced detergents. He purchased Warfleet Mill in 1946 and used the premises initially to produce bleach and washing up liquids.
But Howard had other ideas up his sleeve for one day he arrived at the mill and announced that he was going to start a pottery. As I have noted the area was rich in natural resources. Clays were readily available as well as the famous red clay.
These clays and the processes were versatile enough to enable production in the immediate area. And being by the River Dart and at the bottom of a steep valley water was obviously no problem.
It was strange to think that initially Howard met with local opposition. Hardly a word had been said when the toxic chemical process that had accompanied the creation of the detergents and bleaches had commenced. But the thought that a pottery was going to occupy the site caused a rumpus. Happily common sense prevailed and the local mermaids ceased to glow and were able to go about their business without hindrance once more.
The pottery provided local employment which was important to an area which had seen its fishing industry decline. Dartmouth was no longer the coaling station for the Britannia Royal Naval College which overlooks the town. Times were hard in Dartmouth as they were throughout Post-War Britain so an initiative such as Howard’s was to be welcomed. Many of the Staffordshire Potteries rendered assistance to Howard and he visited them to learn the pottery making processes. Even the much maligned Board of Trade lent a hand as it was in their own interests to see commercial ventures such as these succeed.
Tragically Howard died in October 1955 at the impossibly young age of thirty six. At its height Dartmouth Pottery employed one hundred staff (in the mid-fifties) but by 1963 this had been reduced to about fifty. The use of labour intensive processes were beginning to be phased out.
The pottery was changed hands a number of times finally ending under the ownership of Samuel Heath & Sons who purchased it in 1980. In 1999 Samuel Heath & Sons announced that the pottery had been sold once more and the business lingered on to 2002 under new ownership before fading into history.
I have deliberately not described the wares of the Dartmouth Pottery as I feel that it is for you to make up your mind. One cannot call some of the creations beautiful but there is a great charm to everything they produced. My favourite is their famous gurgling fish jugs which are incredibly vulgar and incredibly beautiful at the same time. The pottery in part catered for the items one found in gift shops around the country.
Teapots, cups and saucers.
Jugs with twee rhymes and cottages of the ideal.
There were some subtle products but mainly they were rather brash and because of this they were great fun.
I do not collect Dartmouth Pottery but there are certain pieces that I would purchase immediately. Variations of the gurgling fish jugs and shells for the bathroom. I would like to find one of the mermaid jugs which were originally commissioned by Plymouth Gin. It may be sad but I still like to believe that there are mermaids in the sea. This said, I have never seen an example of the mermaid jug but one day I hope to find one. Most likely this will be on the same day that I meet a mermaid on the nearby Slapton Sands. Time will tell.
I am writing this article sitting in a chair in a well-appointed apartment overlooking the River Dart. The ferries like busy insects are crossing the river at regular intervals. It has rained hard for the last few days but today, Caron and I were able to visit Dartmouth Castle and pass the Dartmouth Pottery on the way. It was a rather lovely walk with stunning views throughout.
Here are the directions should you wish to visit the pottery.
Basically you just head for Dartmouth Castle which is run by English Heritage. About halfway through your journey you will encounter a short sharp hill on a blind bend and there within view is the Dartmouth Pottery.
A number of houses have been built in the vicinity but you can still get a clear view of the mill. I am not sure what is being used for now but I can remember taking my wife and children into the showrooms on a number of occasions in the past. For some reason my boisterous children seemed to calm down when they were looking at the products manufactured by the pottery. Occasionally we would purchase something but mainly we took an opportunity to take some time out from the nearby beaches and the town.
Caron and I passed the pottery about three hours ago and it is still the same as it was twenty years ago. The mill is as sturdy as the day it was built. As I passed, I sensed my own ghosts of its past. The pottery had roared for some fifty years as the Mammoth had done and then silence had descended once more.
There is an incredible sense of peace at Warfleet Creek which is only slowly broken as you approach Dartmouth Castle and the mysterious St Petrox Church. If you are of thirst then there are great tea-rooms near to the castle and if you fancy swimming or just topping up your tan there is a rather nice cove nearby.
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This said, the swimming is for the strong and the access to the cove is for the agile only. If I was you do not take your motor car but just walk to the pottery and the castle, It is a distance of around one mile. Have a cup of tea and a bun at the tea-rooms and just take in the ambience of the area. If you are lucky, you might be able to pick up an example of the work of the Dartmouth Pottery in the town.
I have known Dartmouth for nearly forty years and have only noticed examples of the town’s only pottery on rare occasions. But you might be luckier than me and meet the Plymouth mermaid on your first visit. If you do please send her my regards.
Enjoy your visit and happy hunting.
Stuart Miller-Osborne